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The 2011 Jury

All members of the jury are well-known personalities on the world of mountaineering.  Acclaimed alpinists and journalists, they are recognised as having experience, competence and integrity.  

Greg Child (Australia, alpinist), President of the 2011 Jury

Enrico Rosso (Italy, alpinist)

Yannick Graziani (France, alpinist)
Simon Anthamatten (Switzerland, alpinist)

Michael Pause (Germany, journalist)

Hiroshi Hagiwara (Japan, journalist)
Greg Child
Born in Australia in 1957, Greg Child has lived in America for many years.  He made a name for himself in the early 1980s with his stunning exploits on El Capitan and several big walls where he opened routes such as Aurora and Lost in America with Peter Mayfield and Randy Leavitt. He also participated in notable firsts such as the East Arête of Shivling (1981 with Doug Scott), the NW Arête of Gasherbrum IV (1986), the North Arête of K2 (1990) and Wall of Shadow on the North Buttress of Mount Hunter (1994 with Michael Kennedy).  His books tell of his travels and ascents (Mixed Emotions and Postcards from the Ledge), exhibiting his talent as a writer and his commitment to his climbs, while knowing how to keep a distance from the world of alpinism he evidently enjoys writing about with the precision of an entomologist.  He has since turned his interest to travelling, journalism for some big outdoor magazines and television.
Simon Anthamatten personifies 21st century alpinism.  Discovered while competing, he became known after his rapid and technical ascent of the North Face of Tengkampoche in 2008 with Ueli Steck, an ascent for which they received a Piolet d’Or in 2009.  A high altitude rescue on the East Arête of Annapurna, also in 2009, gained him the recognition of his peers.  That same year, along with his brother Samuel and Michel Lerjen (all three from Zermatt), he opened a superb new line on Jasemba, a 7350m summit near Cho Oyu.  In the autumn of 2010, the Anthamatten brothers paid a visit to El Capitan and summited “Big Stone” 10 times by nine different routes!  Add to his performances, his humour, his frankness and his quiet modesty…all equally important.
Yannick Graziani is the holder of an impressive list of Himalayan successes: the South East arête and the East Face of Makalu, Chomo Lonzo, Annapurna, Chaukhamba II and Pumari Chisch.  In short, he has forged himself an eclectic range of experience.  An important member of the TGW (Trommsdorff-Graziani-Wagnon) climbing team, he comes from the generation which did not experience big expeditions. Instead he takes on the high commitment and risk levels of alpine style climbing. The daring yet appealing nature of his recent attempt with Stéphane Benoist to climb the South Face of Annapurna in alpine style, drew the gasps of fellow climbers.  We may not be far from celebrating the repetition of the Desmaison route on Huandoy by the two young alpinists Yannick Graziani and Jérôme Blanc-Gras, 20 years after it was first climbed.  But how things have changed since then!

Enrico Rosso is a discreet alpinist.  With unquestionable ethics, he has attempted technical ascents in alpine style at a time when this was not the norm.  His choices are as pleasing as they are difficult; his ascents, not widely known: the North East Face of Shivling in 1986, the South West Arete of Latok III (7143m) in 1988, a first in alpine style, are among the most notable in the history of alpinism.  In 1989, he reached the summit of Diamond Pillar at over 6900m, on the South Face of Nuptse, in perfect style.  Enrico has climbed in Peru and Patagonia; he opened a difficult route on the East face of Les Jorasses and a variation on the North East Spur of Thalay Sagar, as well as attempting the North Face of K2…always with the same requirements: beauty, lightness and discretion.
Michael Pause
In 1978, after completing the German School of Journalism and studies of political science as well as history, he began working for the Bavarian Broadcasting Company producing films for the mountaineering show "Bergauf-Bergab". Since that time he has edited and directed well over 150 films for the show. The background knowledge for the work in alpine-journalism he acquired in the process of rewriting and updating the books originally written by his father (a well known author of books on mountaineering), during this time he became an expert in the variety of mountaineering possibilities to be found in the Alps. In 1984 he assumed responsibility for the alpine portion of the magazine "Berge"; from 1992 until 1998 was Editor in Chief, later he became “Senior Editor”. Since May 1998, he is in charge of the TV show "Bergauf-Bergab" for the Bavarian Broadcasting Company. From its premiere in 2003 he is artistic director of the International Mountain Film Festival of Tegernsee.
He enjoys all kinds of alpine activities, especially rock climbing and backcountry skiing. His work and his hobby have lead him into most regions of the Alps, as well as the mountains of Ladakh, Nepal, Tibet, East Africa, and North America.

Hiroshi Hagiwara learned to climb at AOYAMAGAKUIN University alpine club. After graduating from university, he took a job at Yama-Kei Publishers.  Established 1930, it is the oldest mountaineering publishing company in Japan. Hiroshi has been Editor in Chief of  ROCK & SNOW climbing magazine since 2001.  He was an editor in chief of YAMA TO KEIKOKU, the popular mountaineering magazine for five years. He served as a jury member for the Piolets d’Or Asia three times (2008, 2009 and 2010) in Seoul, Korea.  He is the president of AOYAMAGAKUIN university alpine club graduates (old boy) association who organized the Janakchuli East (Outlier east 7035m) expedition last year. He has edited and written the climbing guide book 74 classics in Japan. He is director of the Japanese Alpine Club and undertakes mountaineering publicity work for various people.

Piolet d'or édition 2012


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