• Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size

Mount Foraker, 5304m

New route

From 13-17 June, American Colin Haley and Norway's Bjorn-Eivind Artun climbed a partial new route on the 3,200m South East Face of Mount Foraker, crossing a previously unclimbed rock/mixed buttress to reach the upper French Ridge. From the summit, they descended part of the North East (Sultana) Ridge and then the North East Icefall Route, taking 71 hours from start to finish.  The two alpinists left without bivouac gear in order to test the limits of non-stop climbing. The route was named Dracula (M6 R, AI4+ and A0).

Point 2256m, Mount Church, 2509m, and Denali, 6193m
New route & first free ascent
In spring the Japanese “Giri-giri” group of Kazuaki Amano, Ryo Masumoto and Takaaki Nagato visited the Ruth Gorge and over two days climbed a new route on the 900m West Face of Pt. 2256m; Optimist (M6 and 5.10-R). They then climbed, again over two days, a new route on the North Face of Church, starting up the 2008 British route, Amazing Grace, then  continuing direct towards the summit at AI4+ and M6 R, naming their route My Friends Forever, after two compatriots lost in Denali in 2008. After this they moved to Denali and made the first free ascent of Denali Diamond on the South Face in 80 hours (2500m, M7/7+). In 2002, British climbers Kenton Cool and Ian Parnell almost succeeded, using only two points of aid.


Mont Bradley, 2774m
New route
Over four days at the start of April, American Mark Allen and American/New Zealand Graham Zimmerman opened a new route on the South East Buttress of Bradley (Ruth Gorge) to the right of the 1997 Bourbon Bottle. Of the 29 pitches, 19 were M5, or WI4 or harder. They descended unknown ground south to the Backside Glacier. The route was named Vitalogy (1400m, M6+, ice 5, rock 5.9 R and A1).


Devil’s Thumb, 2767m
From 13-15th August, Americans Colin Haley and Mikey Schaefer succeeded in the first complete traverse of the massif from west to east. The Diablo Traverse (5.10 and A2) crosses the Witches' Tits, Cat’s Ears Spires and Devil’s Thumb. Part of this odyssey involved climbing the West Buttress of the Devil's Thumb, a route that had not previously been ascended in its entirety.




Chamonix Mont-Blanc Commune de Courmayeur 
Région Rhône-Alpes
VerticalGroupe de Haute Montagne
Montagnes Magazine