• Increase font size
  • Default font size
  • Decrease font size
Mount Augusta, 4289m
New route
This spring, over two days and on their fourth attempt, French Sebastien Bohin, Sebastien Moatti, Emmanuel Pellissier and Sebastien Ratel,  members of the French GMHM, succeeded in making the first ascent of the  North East Spur and North Ridge. After climbing 1300m of virgin mixed and rocky terrain (TD) they joined the original 1952 route on the North Ridge for the final 900m of ascent (AD) to the summit. This ascent took place during the final stage of the GMHM “Seven Continents, Seven Alpinists” project.

Mount Logan, 5959m
New route

In early May, Japanese Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama climbed a new route on the South East Face of Mount Logan. The 2,500m route had several sustained sections, and after reaching the crest of the East Ridge the pair climbed a further 900m to the East Summit at c5,900m, before descending the lengthy East Ridge. They made three bivouacs on the face and one on the East Ridge. The climb was named I-TO (2500m, ED+ WI5 and M6) and in October was presented with an award at the Korean Piolets d’Or Asia.


Baffin Island
New route
In May, British climbers Stuart McAleese, Mark Thomas and Mike Turner  made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed 1400m north east facing rock wall in the Stewart valley, near Great Sail Peak. The three climbers spent 18 consecutive nights on the face in a portaledge, with average temperatures of -20°C, creating Arctic Monkeys at A4 and UIAA V+.



Baffin Island
New route

At the same time, Catalan climbers Josep Maria Esquirol and David Palmada also climbed a neighbouring wall, now named Mirror Wall, over 20 days by a route named Sensassions (1400m, A4R/C4/6c+/70º/M6).

Mount Robson, 3959m
New route, not to summit

On the right side of Mt Robson's 2,500m Emperor Face in Canada's British Columbia, Canadians Jason Kruk and Jon Walsh made a single push ascent of a new and difficult mixed route (2,500m, M6). Over two days in June they climbed the route to an exit onto the Emperor Ridge but did not continue to the summit. However, they estimate that every pitch on the route was M5 or above.




Chamonix Mont-Blanc Commune de Courmayeur 
Région Rhône-Alpes
VerticalGroupe de Haute Montagne
Montagnes Magazine