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Huaguruncho, 5723m
New route

In August British Tony Barton and Tom Chamberlain climbed the first route on the South West Face of Huaguruncho, the highest peak in the massif of the same name. The two made two bivouacs on the face, climbing the poorly-protected 1,000m Llama Karma at ED (Scottish 5 ice, 85-90° Peruvian snow, and rock to UIAA V+) to reach the West Ridge at c5,450m. Dangerous snow conditions prevented them from continuing to the summit and they descended the far side of the mountain, returning to base camp in a four-day round trip.



Quilluhirka  (5,047m)
New Routes

In May an Italian expedition established  routes on the South and South East faces of this rocky summit on the flanks of Nevado Shaqsha (5703m) above the Rurec Valley in the Cordillera Blanca. Andrea di Donata, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura put up El Sueno de los Excludios (1,440m of climbing, 6b+ and A2) on the South East Face, while  Luca D'Andrea and  Massimo Massimiamo climbed La Teoria de la gota de Agua (1440m of climbing, of which 800m original, 6a+, A2+), following the initial section of the South East Face before moving left to the South Face. They called the summit Punta Giampiero Capoccia, unaware that it was climbed by Americans in 2000 and is referred to by some locals as Quilluhirka.


Vallunaraju, 5868m
New route

In July, Peruvians Steven Fuentes, Rolando Morales and Beto Pinto Toledo climbed a new route on the South Face. Although short (300m), but above a lengthy glacier approach, this near-vertical snow-covered rock wall  gave sustained difficulties of icy 5.10 and A2. The route was named El Gran Mono.



Chamonix Mont-Blanc Commune de Courmayeur 
Région Rhône-Alpes
VerticalGroupe de Haute Montagne
Montagnes Magazine