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Romsdal, Troll Wall

First Free Ascent

Sindre and Ole Johan Saether made a free ascent of Arch Wall on the Troll Wall. Drummond's 1972 masterpiece had only three previous ascents (1,200m: 5.11a and A4+). The Saethers climbed the first three/four pitches then descended in bad weather leaving three ropes in place. They returned during a good spell, jumared their ropes and continued to the top in two days. The route involved much challenging climbing in the "5.12 range" (see below), wet slippery sections and big serious runouts above marginal gear (up to 15m above small peckers and Birdbeaks hammered while on lead). No bolts were placed.
[as a word of explanation, apparently Sindre, an extremely bold climber who also redpoints 8c+, is notoriously reticent about his achievements and modest in his grading, ie sandbags].


Blammanen, 861m
New Route

Austrians Hansjorg Auer and Much Mayr climbed a new free route on the big wall venue of Blamannen in Northern Norway. Tingeling links Bongo Bar and Atlantis via a hard traverse. The crux is 7c+, and only one bolt was placed on the route. All pitches were redpointed but weather stopped a continuous one-day ascent.

http://hansjoerg-auer.at/norway-2/ (photos)



Chamonix Mont-Blanc Commune de Courmayeur 
Région Rhône-Alpes
VerticalGroupe de Haute Montagne
Montagnes Magazine