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The 2010 Jury

All members of the jury are well-known personalities on the world of mountaineering.  Acclaimed alpinists and journalists, they are recognised as having experience, competence and integrity.  

Andrej Stremfelj (Slovnia, alpinist), President of the 2010 Jury

Jordi Corominas (Spain, alpinist)

Lindsay Griffin (Great Britain, journalist ans alpinist)

Anna Piunova (Russia, journalist)

Robert Schauer
(Austria,
Alpinist)

Kei Taniguchi (Japan, Alpinist)

VIDEO Jury 

Andrej Stremfelj, President of the 2010 Jury

Andrej has spent the last 30 years climbing in the Himalayas. In 1977, he reached the summit of the South-West summit of Gasherbrum 1 (8068m) with Nejc Zaplotnik.  Two years later, with a Yugoslavian expedition, he climbed the entire West arête of Everest with its difficult high-altitude rocky passages.  In 1989, he inaugurated the central route of the South Face of Shishapangma (8046 m) in three days with Pavle Kozjek. Among his 8000m successes is his first on the South-West Face of south Kanchenjunga (8476m), climbed alpine style with Marko Prezelj, for which he was awarded the Piolet d’Or in 1991.  More recently, in 2000, Andrej was in action on the Tibetan side of Gyachung Kang (7952m) and opened, at the age of 50 in 2006, a difficult route on Janak Chuli (7090m).  He is one of a number of Slovenian climbers who has impressed the world of alpinism.   Andrej is also a representative of the generation of climbers who threw off the constraints of traditional expeditions in order to explore alpine style climbing on the globe’s grand summits.

 

Jordi Corominas favours exploring the highest and most difficult mountains on the planet with a maximum economy of means.  Born in Barcelona in 1958, he grew up in Rioja near the Pyrenees, before moving to the Pyrenean valley of Benasque to become a mountain guide.  In 2004, he proved his talent as a Himalayan climber on reaching the summit of K2 by the Polish route “Magic Line” on the South-West pillar before descending by the Abbruzes spur.  To this day, he remains the only alpinist to have repeated this route, one of the most technical and demanding in high altitude, opened by a large Polish expedition in 1986. He has also undertaken many expeditions on every massif on the planet. In India: The American route of the West arête of Thalay Sagar (6904m, 1990), opening onto the East Face of the Meru North (6450m, 1994), then alpine-style ascent of the Bonington-Fotheringham route on Shivling II (6501m, 1994).  From 2004 to 2006, the Spaniard climbed solo in the Peruvian Andes, notably the South Face of Chopicalqui (6395m) and the North-East face of Huascaran North (6654m).  In 2007, along with Orio Baro, he opened the extremely delicate ice and mixed terrain face of Siula Chico (6265m). In 2008, at 50 years of age, Corominas completed the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro San Lorenzo in Patagonia.   Last year, again with Baro, he performed yet again on the virgin East pillar of Tengi Ragi Tau (6968m) in Nepal.  He chose to descend only a few pitches from the summit due to frostbite menacing the feet of his loyal climbing companion.

 

Lindsay Griffin is especially known as the author of the most comprehensive mountaineering chronicles of the last few years and the backbone of British magazines such as High or Climb.  He has an encyclopaedic wealth of knowledge on both the historical and geographical level, proof not only of his talents as a journalist and historian but also of the knowledge gained from his many trips to mountain massifs across the planet from where he has amassed an extraordinary collection of photographs, information and contacts.  His talent as a columnist should not overshadow his mountaineering abilities.Who can forget the route he opened in December 1973 on the east side of Tacul in the Mont-Blanc massif, or the superb new climbing route on Kwangde Shar (6093m) in Nepal, highlighting the interest of this highly visible massif from Namache.

 

 

Anna Piunova
Born on 23rd September 1970 in Ekaterinburg, a military-industrial town in the Urals, Anna Piunova discovered the mountains and climbing with her elder brother. he progressed rapidly and soon became a member of the Soviet Union’s junior climbing team, before joining the army and her sports club. Along with some top-level Russian climbers, she created the first local internet site giving information on the Ural mountains. When the Soviet Union disintegrated she rejoined the Mountain.ru team in Moscow, nowadays the site of reference for information on Russian alpinism. She is the Editor-in-chief. She also corresponds with the American Alpine Journal and Alpinist magazine.  Qualifying as a photographer from the Moscow Academy, Anna also contributes to numerous specialist publications on climbing and the mountains.  Attached to her values of alpine style climbing and alpinism, and still an excellent climber (7b+
on-sight, 8a red-point) she remains inspired by modern mountaineers and prefers the lighter style over the techniques of high altitude alpinism.


Robert Schauer
Born in Graz, Austria on 27th August 1953, his Himalayan career started in 1974 with a first on Pumari Chhish (7458m), followed by Gasherbrum 1 (8068m) in 1975, then Nanga Parbat (8125m) in 1976, by the new route of the South-West arête. ummiting Everest in 1978, Makalu in 1981 and Broad Peak in 1984, after a winter ascent of the Eiger in 1985, he undertook one of the most fabulous Himalayan adventures in the same year: the West Face of Gasherbrum IV (7925m), with Voytek Kurtyka.  With the difficulty of this mixed ascent on alternately compact then weak marble, the absence of places to bivouac, the storm which blocked them for two days and the descent by the difficult North-West arête, they entered into Himalayan legend.  Robert Schauer, who created the International Mountain Film Festival in Graz, has been working as a film producer since 1988.


Kei Taniguchi
Born in Japan on 14th July 1972, Kei was drawn by a sense of adventure from an early age, admiring the explorer Naomi Uemura, the first Japanese to reach the summit of Everest, the North Pole and then the summit of Denali in Alaska (1970). After Uemura died during his second winter ascent of McKinley in March 1984, Kei decided to follow in his footsteps by going to Alaska. On reaching the summit of Denali in 2001, she decided from then on to devote her life to alpinism. It was not simply the high level of technical difficulty which attracted her, but more the exploration of undiscovered mountains all over the world. She opened a first on Spantik in 2004, made the second alpine-style ascent of the East arête of Mustagh Ata (7564m, China) and climbed Shivling (6543m, India) in 2005.  In 2006 and 2007, she was drawn towards the high altitudes of Manasula and Everest. or the last 10 years, this self-employed personnel manager has been on expeditions all over the world. Last year in Chamonix she was awarded a Piolet d’Or for the first ascent in 2008 of the South-East face of Kamet (7756m, India), alpine style, with her fellow compatriot Kazuja Hiraide. This year, using this complicated and difficult style she has twice renounced: on the West Face of Kunyan Chish (7400m, Pakistan) and on the East Face of Gaurishankar (7134m, Tibet).  As a jury member, Kei represents the feminine side of the new generation of dedicated alpinists.



 
Piolet d'or édition 2012

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